14 posts tagged Marc Jacobs
14 posts tagged Marc Jacobs
Resort 2012 — A White Collar Affair
I had planned to pen a fully-fledged print piece (or for a magazine’s online component) addressing the inrush of white collars that hit the showrooms this resort 2012, perhaps touching on the historic and socioeconomic ramifications of what such a loaded motif as a “white collar” could possibly connote (or not) of our world at large—and fashion’s relevance therein.
Altuzarra Resort 2012
Alas, due to silly life things (pressing work obligations and deadlines coupled with schoolwork and exams out of town), I have yet to find a free moment to develop anything semi-intelligeble or worthwhile on this whole resort 2012/white collar notion. So here are a few hare-brained thoughts, seeing as I have yet to come to any firm conclusions myself on the matter…
Céline resort 2012
I reckon it would be foolish to assume that this trend bears any pertinency on our economy in the way that we may initially perceive (in the standard sense of the term apropos to White Collar crime, white-collar professionals, etc.). After all, white collars—when unaccompanied by a suit, that is—bore altogether different implications at one time, as I was reminded upon rereading John Updike’s acclaimed A & P (1961) this past week.
Chloë Sevigny for Opening Ceremony resort 2012, Chloé resort 2012
In the midst of quitting his job as New England grocery store clerk, Updike’s teenage narrator Sammy removes his uniform (a white apron and bowtie) ostensibly in angst over his employer’s treatment of young bikini-clad customers. You probably have already read the classic (it is well-nigh a requisite in most American schools), but in case missed the boat and are curious: The freedom portrayed by the bathing-suited girls alludes him, and he ends up alone in the white shirt that his mother had starched for him. Poor Sammy.
Peter Jensen resort 2012
Peter Jensen resort 2012
Then again, the wealth of white collars this resort season could merely allude to designers’ optimism that by catering toward white-collar customers (in the most traditional, affluent sense), such a clientele would in turn snap up their “white-collar” togs. [E.g., Stefano Pilati’s resort 2012 Yves Saint-Laurent showing.] Although I have a sneaking suspicion that Elizabeth Warren and (chic) economists on both sides of the aisle would be quick to debunk ascribing the trend to that rationale.
Carven by Guillaume Henry
Carmen de Tommaso (Mme. Carven) was famously a fan of peter pan collars and white cuffs—veritable signatures of early Carven. The house is flourishing under Guillaume Henry’s helm; who, as it is oft-reported, is doing wonders carrying the Carven torch into the 21st century. Perhaps the rest of the fashion flock is finally catching onto his sought-after propensity of topping his “French cool girl” collections with a trademark Carven peek-a-boo white collar (sometimes betwixt a bola tie)?
Acne resort 2012
Or plausibly I am reading way too much into this, and white collars’ coinciding, collection-wide presence is merely a testiment to how pretty and crisp and clean they are—evidentiary of their remarkable ability to add a demure and ladylike touch to even the sultriest of ensembles.
Burberry Prorsum resort 2012
So, white collars are a thing this resort 2012. And frankly, I don’t know why.
Oh and here’s an illuminating interview with John Updike (1932-2009) on A & P, which is mildly germane to this whole spiel, sort of:
Be sure to hop to Dossier, where I interviewed Chadwick Tyler about his forthcoming art book, projected for publication in fall 2012.
Paper Magazine May 2011 — "Styled Like Me"
I am heartily flattered to be featured amongst the industry legends within Paper's Social Media issue on newsstands now! I truly had a ball on set styling this little last-minute piece (including the four girls at right) alongside such an funloving crew; my sincerest thanks again!
On me: Maison Michel lace ears, Pamela Love turquoise skull necklace, Lulu Frost vintage charm necklace, Timo Weiland rain parka, Shipley & Halmos jumper, Alexander Wang Marion mini flap bag, Chloë Sevigny for Opening Ceremony x Fogal floral tights
Natalie: Chloë Sevigny for Opening Ceremony Sophie puff sleeve houndstooth dress, Lulu Frost vintage charm necklace, Henrik Vibskov Sokke bomber cardigan, vintage Navajo beaded belt, Acne wedges, Victoria Grant hat, Pamela Love tribal ring
Iris: Deyrolle pour Opening Ceremony cat print tee, Marc Jacobs floral pin (worn as headband) and rust silk overalls, Rag & Bone beige net vest, Pamela Love spiked cuff, vintage Gravati brogues (with American Apparel peach ribbon laces)
Aubrey: Opening Ceremony grey felt cap, Prada embroidered monkey top, Chloë Sevigny for Opening Ceremony Lissy boxy swing dress (shown as skirt), 3.1 Phillip Lim clogs, Lulu Frost vintage necklace and mesh bracelet, Derek Lam Ume ram messenger bag
Flynn: Opening Ceremony Liberty print straw hat, Jeanette Farrier sari shawl, 3.1 Phillip Lim bow midriff dress (view here), Acne blazer, Hansel from Basel woolen pixie leggings, Marc Jacobs sunglasses, Alejandro Ingelmo for Chris Benz wedges
Here is an excerpt from my Teen Vogue March 2011 interview with Fashion News Director Jane Keltner de Valle (who wore many hats and also photographed Bryanboy and me at the Marc Jacobs headquarters—and [as seen above, in archival MMJ wares] just across the street at Lafayette Smoke Shop):
Jane Keltner de Valle: Do you remember the first Marc by Marc Jacobs piece you ever bought?
Julia Frakes: I do! It was a proper pink ruffled teatime skirt from spring 2002 that, if I’m not mistaken, was first sported on the catwalk by Natalia Vodianova paired with a very Annie Hall corduroy vest. That ensemble’s dichotomy really struck me and spurred a whole “ladylike tomboy” wardrobe phase in middle school—highlighted by plenty of MMJ, of course.
JKdV: What’s your favorite Marc by Marc Jacobs moment from the past decade?
JF: My most prized MMJ closet staples stem from some of my favorite runway moments like the ginormous floor-grazing “super scarves" of fall 2002, the "Dustbowl chic" ditsy florals of spring 2009, the 80s Americana buffalo plaids and patchwork dresses of fall 2005, the dusty palate and 1920s side-swept hair of spring 2007, and the rather bookish fall 2007 collection ripe for an after-school ice skating romp on a frozen pond in England’s Lake District (especially befitting considering that the fall/winter 2007 MMJ show was staged in London).
JKdV: How would you describe the Marc by Marc Jacobs girl? Do you think she’s changed over the years?
JF: There is an eccentric youthful optimism at the heart of each season that—from day one of the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection—has reminded me of one of my favorite childhood stories, the Swiss national treasure Heidi by Johanna Spyri (and the 1937 film based on the novel starring Shirley Temple as the namesake character). That spry spirit and exuberant attitude may have progressively become more polished over the past decade, but its balance between sweetness and sophistication is constantly evolving in accord with the inclination of the mainstream culture at large (thereby boosting its wide-ranging accessibility with its iconic, instantly-recognizable and sought-after MMJ lifestyle goods).
JF: At the time of its dissemination, I distinctly recall reckoning how the casting of muse Iekeliene Stange in Juergen Teller's quirky Spring 2007 MMJ campaign was the quintessential embodiment of the madcap panache of the brand's targeted MMJ girl.
JKdV: What do you most love about Marc by Marc Jacobs?
JF: KCD casting director Michelle Lee's cheerful, fresh-faced casting is perpetually spot-on and in turn plays up some of my favorite facets of each collection—namely Marc by Marc Jacobs’ signature penchant for layering, an easygoing thrift-shop ethos and a lively mix-and-matchable sensibility—that anchor the line’s approachability and offers an attainable gateway into the brilliant world of Marc Jacobs.
Also, the highly-marketable Marc by Marc Jacobs accessories devised by Katie Hillier bridge the gap between all ages; they somehow lend themselves to being just as suited on a zany teen as they are on a lighthearted grown-up.
Go behind-the-scenes with Fashion News Director Jane Keltner de Valle during our photoshoot at the Marc Jacobs International headquarters in Soho for the March 2011 issue of Teen Vogue [slideshow]
STRIKE A JUXTAPOSE — "Celia" by American artist John Graham circa 1944 vs. Louis Vuitton by American designer Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2010 (as styled for the “Fifties Flair” category of the 2010 Fashion’s Night Out: The Show event)
… In the early 1940s Graham underwent a radical philosophical transition, during which his belief in Marxism and psychoanalysis was replaced by more magical thinking. His taste for modernism shifted to the old masters, particularly those of the Renaissance. “Celia” was painted during these transitional years and is one of the many portraits of imaginary women dating from this time. In these paintings he achieved a monumental reinterpretation of classical art. Here, the calm and dignity of the lovely woman, her elegant silhouette, and her monumental solidity are reminiscent of ancient Roman portraiture, of Ingres, and of Raphael, while the forms, as well as the curious sense of detachment from place and time hint at biomorphic Surrealist sculpture. The tension between the figure and the flat pictorial structure belies Graham’s avowed dismissal of modernism. He maintained that he gave his sitters staring (sometimes crossed) eyes not as an expressive device, “but as a means to anchor space to a point in the room, to create more tension…to make the figures immutable, fixed and timeless.” [read more at The Metropolitan Museum of Art]
Shortly after her graduation from Westminster University, Katie Hillier's smash hit beaded ribbon belt conceived for Luella's second show, “Daddy I Want a Pony” sparked her long line of memorable collaborations with fashion's most eminent and esteemed designers and luxury houses –– including Giles, Stella McCartney, Hogan and Salvatore Ferragamo. As one of Elle UK's “50 Most Influential in British Fashion” – and as the 2009 winner of Accessory Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards – Katie now helms Katie Hillier Ltd, collaborating with the likes of Clements Ribeiro, Converse, Daks, Gap, Hugo Boss, House of Holland, Jonathan Saunders, Markus Lupfer, Samantha Thavasa and Sophia Kokosalaki. Since 2003, Katie has been the freelance designer for the Marc by Marc Jacobs accessories collection –– where her sought-after, whimsical creations span everything from handbags, hair accessories and jewelry; to boot, for the past two years Katie has been the design consultant for Marc by Marc Jacobs eyewear and watches (licensed through Safilo and Fossil firms). Her fanciful fine jewelry collection, Hillier London, has a cult following amongst fashion’s zaniest insiders –– who all routinely flock to Colette, Dover Street Market and Matches to snap up her charming creatures.
And so I “sat down” with Katie last week…
Katie: Our inspiration comes from everyday objects and by adding a twist of luxury! We at Hillier London are totally obsessed with animals and as we spend a lot of time in the wonderful British countryside it only seemed natural to start off with iconic woodland animals –– with the addition of our German Hound!
Of all of your accessory collaborations this season (with Marc by Marc Jacobs, Henry Holland and Loewe), which are you most excited to see come to fruition?
That’s a tough one; every client is totally unique and we are always working with new techniques and concepts… so everyone is as exciting as the next! (Sorry to be so fashionably diplomatic!) But keep your eyes peeled on the shows!
What – or who – makes you happiest?
Doggies, bunnies, my wonderful friends at Hillier London, my cottage in Great Tew… and waking up on a Saturday morning and going to Broadway Market in East London for a delicious violet cupcake, coffee and reading the papers! Pretty simple, really!
Admittedly a stretch… but caught my eye nonetheless.
“Sometimes beautiful is enough.”
-Marc Jacobs, February 15, 2010