3 posts tagged joseph altuzarra
3 posts tagged joseph altuzarra
Resort 2012 — A White Collar Affair
I had planned to pen a fully-fledged print piece (or for a magazine’s online component) addressing the inrush of white collars that hit the showrooms this resort 2012, perhaps touching on the historic and socioeconomic ramifications of what such a loaded motif as a “white collar” could possibly connote (or not) of our world at large—and fashion’s relevance therein.
Altuzarra Resort 2012
Alas, due to silly life things (pressing work obligations and deadlines coupled with schoolwork and exams out of town), I have yet to find a free moment to develop anything semi-intelligeble or worthwhile on this whole resort 2012/white collar notion. So here are a few hare-brained thoughts, seeing as I have yet to come to any firm conclusions myself on the matter…
Céline resort 2012
I reckon it would be foolish to assume that this trend bears any pertinency on our economy in the way that we may initially perceive (in the standard sense of the term apropos to White Collar crime, white-collar professionals, etc.). After all, white collars—when unaccompanied by a suit, that is—bore altogether different implications at one time, as I was reminded upon rereading John Updike’s acclaimed A & P (1961) this past week.
Chloë Sevigny for Opening Ceremony resort 2012, Chloé resort 2012
In the midst of quitting his job as New England grocery store clerk, Updike’s teenage narrator Sammy removes his uniform (a white apron and bowtie) ostensibly in angst over his employer’s treatment of young bikini-clad customers. You probably have already read the classic (it is well-nigh a requisite in most American schools), but in case missed the boat and are curious: The freedom portrayed by the bathing-suited girls alludes him, and he ends up alone in the white shirt that his mother had starched for him. Poor Sammy.
Peter Jensen resort 2012
Peter Jensen resort 2012
Then again, the wealth of white collars this resort season could merely allude to designers’ optimism that by catering toward white-collar customers (in the most traditional, affluent sense), such a clientele would in turn snap up their “white-collar” togs. [E.g., Stefano Pilati’s resort 2012 Yves Saint-Laurent showing.] Although I have a sneaking suspicion that Elizabeth Warren and (chic) economists on both sides of the aisle would be quick to debunk ascribing the trend to that rationale.
Carven by Guillaume Henry
Carmen de Tommaso (Mme. Carven) was famously a fan of peter pan collars and white cuffs—veritable signatures of early Carven. The house is flourishing under Guillaume Henry’s helm; who, as it is oft-reported, is doing wonders carrying the Carven torch into the 21st century. Perhaps the rest of the fashion flock is finally catching onto his sought-after propensity of topping his “French cool girl” collections with a trademark Carven peek-a-boo white collar (sometimes betwixt a bola tie)?
Acne resort 2012
Or plausibly I am reading way too much into this, and white collars’ coinciding, collection-wide presence is merely a testiment to how pretty and crisp and clean they are—evidentiary of their remarkable ability to add a demure and ladylike touch to even the sultriest of ensembles.
Burberry Prorsum resort 2012
So, white collars are a thing this resort 2012. And frankly, I don’t know why.
Oh and here’s an illuminating interview with John Updike (1932-2009) on A & P, which is mildly germane to this whole spiel, sort of:
I am absolutely over-the-moon for the new cover of The Last Magazine graced by none other than my lovely editor at 25 Magazine Anja Rubik (in an Altuzarra stunner) and shot by dear friend, the talented and warmhearted Maciek Kobielski ––– who, yes, has indeed photographed me for an editorial to be released later this week in another publication.
While I cannot specifically recollect the first time that I met the captivating Lily Kwong, I do distinctly recall being instantly entranced by her exquisite beauty, sincere charm and quick wit upon our first fully fledged conversation at an event toasting Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough at Norwood. A modern-day muse in her own right, the Elite model, Columbia University student and Vogue-anointed “It Girl” has already worked for the likes of Christian Dior, GQ and Proenza Schouler and assisted her cousin Joseph Altuzarra throughout the launch his much-lauded and altogether stunning debut collection.
I recently caught up with Lily over coffee in New York…
How has your own sense of style been influenced by your close personal relationships with contemporary tastemakers –– namely Garance Doré, your cousin Joseph Altuzarra, and the behind-the-scenes folks at Proenza Schouler (CEO Shirley Cook and Account Executive Constance Ragons)?
Well, I think these individuals are really artists. The depth and breadth of their references are so remarkable. To be honest, fashion didn’t really interest me until these people taught me that above all, style has to be inspired. Whatever it is — film, architecture, travel, history — own it. That’s when fashion becomes fun. Joseph used to say to me, “sophistication through negligence.” I always remembered that. I know it sounds paradoxical… but these fashion forces informed my personal style the most by showing me that being stylish means to be both passionate and curious. In the end, it all comes out in the wash anyway!
Where has been the most exhilarating photoshoot location where you have ever been shot to date?
Exhilarating? That’s a tough question. I started modeling the first time around at 18, and I was very distracted. A weekend at the beach in Long Island comes to mind, and once I did an incredible shoot on the outskirts of Paris. I’m not certain if that qualifies as exhilarating but I met some extraordinary people that day, which is always the greatest thing for me. It is only recently that I have gotten back into modeling, and my experience with Elite thus far has been fantastic. I have a good feeling that there will be many exhilarating photoshoots in my future!
Which collections are you most heartily anticipating this season?
Céline, McQueen, and Altuzarra of course!