Resort 2012 — A White Collar Affair

I had planned to pen a fully-fledged print piece (or for a magazine’s online component) addressing the inrush of white collars that hit the showrooms this resort 2012, perhaps touching on the historic and socioeconomic ramifications of what such a loaded motif as a “white collar” could possibly connote (or not) of our world at large—and fashion’s relevance therein.

Altuzarra Resort 2012

Alas, due to silly life things (pressing work obligations and deadlines coupled with schoolwork and exams out of town), I have yet to find a free moment to develop anything semi-intelligeble or worthwhile on this whole resort 2012/white collar notion.  So here are a few hare-brained thoughts, seeing as I have yet to come to any firm conclusions myself on the matter…

Céline resort 2012

I reckon it would be foolish to assume that this trend bears any pertinency on our economy in the way that we may initially perceive (in the standard sense of the term apropos to White Collar crime, white-collar professionals, etc.).  After all, white collars—when unaccompanied by a suit, that is—bore altogether different implications at one time, as I was reminded upon rereading John Updike’s acclaimed A & P (1961) this past week.

Chloë Sevigny for Opening Ceremony resort 2012, Chloé resort 2012

In the midst of quitting his job as New England grocery store clerk, Updike’s teenage narrator Sammy removes his uniform (a white apron and bowtie) ostensibly in angst over his employer’s treatment of young bikini-clad customers.  You probably have already read the classic (it is well-nigh a requisite in most American schools), but in case missed the boat and are curious: The freedom portrayed by the bathing-suited girls alludes him, and he ends up alone in the white shirt that his mother had starched for him.  Poor Sammy.  

[There’s a short film adaptation of A & P here, starring Sean Hayes and Amy Smart in all their circa 1996 glory.]

Peter Jensen resort 2012

Then again, the wealth of white collars this resort season could merely allude to designers’ optimism that by catering toward white-collar customers (in the most traditional, affluent sense), such a clientele would in turn snap up their “white-collar” togs.  [E.g., Stefano Pilati’s resort 2012 Yves Saint-Laurent showing.]  Although I have a sneaking suspicion that Elizabeth Warren and (chic) economists on both sides of the aisle would be quick to debunk ascribing the trend to that rationale.  

Carven by Guillaume Henry

Carmen de Tommaso (Mme. Carven) was famously a fan of peter pan collars and white cuffs—veritable signatures of early Carven.  The house is flourishing under Guillaume Henry’s helm; who, as it is oft-reported, is doing wonders carrying the Carven torch into the 21st century.  Perhaps the rest of the fashion flock is finally catching onto his sought-after propensity of topping his “French cool girl” collections with a trademark Carven peek-a-boo white collar (sometimes betwixt a bola tie)?

Acne resort 2012

Or plausibly I am reading way too much into this, and white collars’ coinciding, collection-wide presence is merely a testiment to how pretty and crisp and clean they are—evidentiary of their remarkable ability to add a demure and ladylike touch to even the sultriest of ensembles.  

Burberry Prorsum resort 2012

So, white collars are a thing this resort 2012.  And frankly, I don’t know why.

Oh and here’s an illuminating interview with John Updike (1932-2009) on A & P, which is mildly germane to this whole spiel, sort of:

An Interview with John Updike

Proenza Schouler Spring 2011 Ad Campaign

• Photographer: Willy Vanderperre
• Shoot date: November 20th, 2010 in London
• Models: Melissa Tammerijn (New York Models) & Julia Nobis (Elite Model Management)
• Stylist: Marie Chaix
• Hair: Yannick D’Ys
• Makeup: Sally Branka

I first came to really appreciate Willy’s work through his perennial collaborative relationship with Raf Simmons (and, ergo, the house of Jil Sander). Over the course of the past few months, my love affair with his subtle, captivating technique has been rekindled with the release of his exquisite The Gentlewoman beauty editorial (featuring Abbey Lee in Peter Phillips’ Chanel maquillage), the Roversi-esque Vogue China December 2010 cover and editorial “Freezing Allure” (starring an alluringly meditative Lara Stone), the vibrant V Magazine editorial (photographed at my dear friends at Spring Studios’ unbeatable space in London and featuring a newly-brunette Natasha Poly) and his stark January 2011 W Magazine editorial “Spring Awakening” (co-starring my fellow NEXT Special Bookings board member Tali Lennox along with Lindsey Wixson, Kinga Rajzak and a gaggle of other gorgeous girls).

2011 may still be young, but Willy has been serisouly killing it in the advertising department and has already lent his wistful, discerning lens to the spring 2011 Prada Men, Dior Homme, Proenza Schouler, Jil Sander and Givenchy “Le Bouquet Absolu” fragrance campaigns.

I am literally beside myself with the sheer beauty and lightness of the Proenza campaign in particular—thanks, of course, to Marie’s styling and an ace team—which lent the images their dreamy, ethereal tenor. Yannick’s angelic hair together with Julia and Melissa’s come-hither chemistry and contemplative dispositions are the perfect foils to the day-glo spring/summer wares. Five stars, yo.

UPDATED: Check out my dear friend Danny Roberts’ stupendous speed painting of the campaign: PS: Have you ever seen the stop-motion rendition that Danny did of me back in 2009? It was such an huge honor; I am still taken aback beyond words. (Igor + André)